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    • #2363
      AvatarJerry McEntire

      Many times a cracked or punctured EZ Dock section can be repaired by simply melting the polyethylene dock material with a torch or plastic welding iron (a large hot metal iron that melts the plastic together). Occasionally we have customers that have punctured or cut the dock with bullets, boat propeller from an outboard engine or some other accident and we use an old dock section to piece a repair and melt that into the open hole. If you have stress cracks near coupler pockets they normally occur after constant large storms due to extreme pressure on the dock. At times these cracks can be repaired in the same manner, melting the material together, but if it is in place that receives a lot of stress it may not hold.

      The EZ Dock system includes couplers which are designed to break before a dock section cracks which is the reason the docks are provided with an 8 year warranty. EZ Dock is the most durable dock system available today and issues regarding cracks from storm damage are extremely rare.

      You also have a “weep hole” on the end of each dock section that allows the dock to change pressure inside as atmospheric conditions change outside. At times in rough water we have seen water enter the docks through the weep hole but this is normally in salt water applications where waves are bouncing off a bulkhead and back into the dock system. Several years ago EZ Dock introduced a new hydrophobic vent that allows air to pass through but will prevent any water from entering the dock regardless of rough water conditions. These can be inserted into a hole in the end of older dock sections while you seal the original “vent hole” that has been included since the docks were invented 20 years ago. You can plug the old vent hole with silicone or simply drill it out and replace with the new hydrophobic vent.

      Draining docks is a simple process – drill a hole in one corner on the edge of the dock near the top or inside an empty coupler pocket; drain the water or pump the water out. Then purchase a threaded plastic plug from plumbing supply store of the same size you made the hole, the plug will prevent water from entering the dock through the drain hole you created. Since the entire dock section has interconnected chambers, only one hole is required to drain the entire dock.

    • #2366
      Eric GrazianoEric Graziano

      Thanks Jerry, Here is the repair “How To” from EZ Dock’s website:

      EZ Dock Repair Instructions

      In the event that a dock section or other polyethylene accessory should become damaged, it is possible to heat weld a cracked or cut area. For repair a dock or lift section should be completely drained. The portion of the polyethylene to be repaired should be cleaned form any dirt or other substances which may have gotten on the affected area.


      1.     Small, tipped soldering iron of approximately 40 – 80 watts

      2.     Drill with ¼” bit

      3.     Propane torch

      4.     File

      5.     Air compressor – low pressure

      6.     #10 sheet metal screw

      7.     Screwdriver


      1.     Polyethylene repair sticks



      The process of repair of any polyethylene section starts with pre-heating the soldering iron. Once the soldering iron is hot, push the tip in between the sides of the crack or hole. It is important that the tip penetrate through the full thickness of the material. The object is to bring the material to a state of flux so that it will bond to itself when hot. If the gap is too wide to bridge with the existing material, use the polyethylene repair stick to supply additional material to fill the gap. The process of melting and pushing together should continue until the full thickness and length of the damaged area has been filled. Once the crack or cut area has been filled the small propane torch or the file can be used to smooth out any ridges or bumps that remain.

      To determine if the repaired area is airtight, use the compress to compressed air into the section’s vent hole which is located on one end just ½” below the top edge. Put 1 – 2 pounds of air into the section and then close the vent with the #10 sheet metal screw. After 30 minutes, remove the screw; and listen to hear air escaping which indicates the section held pressure. If the section did not hold pressure, reapply the pressure and closely listen for any air leaks around the repaired area. When the area that is leaking is found, repair as in the instructions given above.

      After the repair is accomplished, remove the #10 sheet metal screw so the section will be able to equalize pressure with changes in temperature.

      Here is a cool video on a major repair: https://youtu.be/KJ3b0LLXr9M


      • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by Eric GrazianoEric Graziano.
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